Laos Impressions

Hello, from Vientiane. We are hiding out in an internet cafe, for some relief from the humidity outside. It is hotter and more humid here than any place we have been on this trip so far!

I suppose you might say that I have a different take on Laos than my sister, for having been other places around the world. Yes, getting around here is more difficult that it is at home, or in Europe. We took a bus ride yesterday that lasted 4 hours more than it should have. The actual ride was the equivalent of a carnival ride--holding on with both hands, hoping that the machine doesn't fall apart before the ride is over. The driver at the wheel was employing the "honk and hope" routine--coming up to yet another switchback, he'd honk a lot before entering the blind corner, and hope that anyone else coming could get out of our way in time. We had ponied up a few extra dollars for the VIP bus, which meant that the bus had a bathroom. Well, there was a toilet, but it was inside of a room the size of a shoebox, and when you went inside with the door shut, there was not enough room to stand, let alone pee. With the bus pitching and rocking and bumping, trying to pee while the bus was in motion was the equivalent of trying to pee in a drink shaker (while shaking it). Needless to say, after one experience in the shoebox, we both held it. The road from Luang Prabang to Vientiane is supposed to be one of the best in Laos--but i am sure that I spent most of the ride hanging onto the seat after hitting yet another bump very very hard and fast.

Laos has only recently opened up to tourism--it is obvious that this country is growing. There is construction everywhere, in every town there is something being built. Also, I have not seen many beggars or people who appear to be starving, which I have seen in other places. The children here appear to be happy, and playful, not like other children i have seen who have been in serious need or nutrients or medical care in other places. There are few obese people though, for the most part, the people here work very hard, and it shows in their physiques. Only the most well off people in the village can afford to have much of a beer belly. The question remains--is this how it is here, or are we just seeing what they want us to see?

Yet, it is also obvious that this country is growing faster than the country can accommodate the changes. The Lao people have a love affair with plastic--they wrap everything in it. The downside of that is that there is no where to put discarded plastic, and other trash. One solution is to burn all the trash at night--coming into Vientiane, there were numerous small fires along the roads, and as hot as it is, it certainly wasn't for warmth. Another solution is to just simply throw it next to the house, and create a personal landfill--throwing dirt and other debris over the top. Another option we often see is discarding garbage into the river---the mighty Mekong river, at its rainy season height, is a swirling giant with a calm surface, but occasionally pockets boil to the top, and spit out piles of garbage and other debris collected along the banks. The trees line the riverbank covered with plastic, as the last time the river rose to their heights, the branches acted as strainers for the plastic, and it waves at us merrily as we go by, like Christmas decorations.

The bus ride, while long, also allowed us to see a lot of the countryside--tall limestone peaks covered in green vegetation, spotted with small homesteads of slash and burn agriculture. It is amazing, that people can even get to these heights, clear some land, burn it for the nutrients, and then farm it. The downside--all this clearing of land leads to greater erosion of the land--some of called the flooding of this year in these areas the worst in 40 years. I am no biologist, but it is clear that the flooding in these areas will only get worse, without some organization and conservation efforts. But truly, the Lao landscape is quite dramatic, and beautiful.

The streets too, show that the country is outgrowing its britches--in places the roads just fall off mountainsides. Sidewalks are pristine for a few feet, covered in a fake marble material, and then next block is torn apart, covered in organic waste and matter, smelling like urine and dead animals. Vientiane, the Capital City, is better than others and worse--there are some gorgeous streets, some have called one street the "Champ Elysees" of the East. And the next street over is a series of dilapidated houses and boarded up storefronts.

The people have also been a mixed bag--we meet people in the cities who often deal with tourists, and they treat us in an arrogant manner, like we should be grateful that they would allow us to spend our money there. In other places, people are happy to help. I suppose that is the same at home, all kinds of people--but the people i have enjoyed the most are the ones who live outside the cities. The small town and village people wave and call out greetings as we pass, and the children always wave and shout out whatever English they know, and chase the bikes or cars. "Hello! What is your name! Good Morning!" They often seem astonished that we would be out there in the middle of nowhere....they think it is hot too, what are these crazy tourists doing, hiking in the middle of the day! Again, i think our experience dealing with the Laos in tourism has effected somewhat how I feel about the people--i think outside of the tourist industry, the people are different, but it can be difficult to meet them.

I hear often, other tourists making the claim that Laos will be a different place in 20 years, and that we are fortunate to be visiting now. I think Laos will change quickly, but I predict that it will not take 20 years to be unrecognizable--i give it 5 years or less.

As Laos compares to other travels--it is safer than south america. I have not yet worried once about my safety, even on the wild bus ride. I do not worry about theft as I did in Europe. While there is a glut of tourists, so far, I have not seen the drugs that often accompany them. The Andes are hard to beat, when it comes to picturesque views, and history of these cities is more unknown to us than what we have already learned about Europe in school--but there is other history here, the Wars. We have not had a chance to visit many sites, or museums, mainly because in the small towns, there aren't any. I read in the LP that 80% of US MIAs are believed to have been lost in Laos. I am hoping as we head to Vietnam, to get some more education, but I imagine it will be difficult, with the coast tempting us away from the demilitarized zone. (when we get there!!!!)

I hope this finds you well.